GYMNASTICS FOR EVERY JUMPING HORSE AND RIDER
PART 2: THE BASIC TROT IN GYMNASTIC
An educational article by Vanessa and Buddy Brown, DERBY HILL
From our previous article, your horse should be accustomed to negotiating various poles and series of poles on the ground. This installment is going to deal with the next step, which is negotiating a basic trot-in gymnastic of 2 or 3 elements. We will cover basic rider position, and function, as well as specific ways to improve rider weaknesses. We will also look at reaching our goals for the horse. These include better set up and landing strides, tidier front ends, orthodox bascules, and improved balance and self-carriage. We will explore adjustments that can be made to the exercise to target certain types of horses such as those that are quick or lazy, have a tendency to get crooked, or are just plain green. The trot-in gymnastic should be set up in an area of the ring where it is approachable off both a left and right turn. Be sure there is enough space after the gymnastic for four quality canter steps and a down transition to a halt before you reach the edge of the ring. In the winter, when we are using the indoor ring, we generally set this exercise up on the centerline, or very close to it. The basic gymnastic will start with a pole on the ground, to a cross rail set 7 to 8 feet away from the pole, and then a measurement of 18feet to a cross rail oxer (see picture), and then 17 feet to a pole on the ground. Variations on this will be discussed throughout the article, and as in the measurements previously given for exercises using poles on the ground, the footage given is a guideline and should be adjusted for each horse individually. Don’t forget to have a ground person handy for safety, as well as exercise adjustments, and setting or re-setting of jumps.
BASIC JUMPING DYNAMICS
Before heading to the gymnastic, make sure you trot a single cross rail a few times. The height of the cross rail will depend on horse and rider’s experience and comfort level, but ensure that each end of the cross rail is equal in height so that the center is just that! This is your warm up jump, and will set the tone for the gymnastic. We usually use placement poles both as a prelude to the gymnastic to come, and as an aid for both horse and rider to create good timing and an orthodox jump. A comfortable distance for the approach side pole is 7 to 8 feet, and the landing pole works well for most horses 9 or 10 feet away on the backside of the cross rail. Approach the cross rail at a working trot, making sure you have a good rhythm, your legs are squeezing with your horse’s step, and you have a light connection with your hand. Look early with your eye so that you are in a straight line to the jump. Once you have placed your horse in a straight line, lift your eye to the end of the track, looking well past the cross rail. As your horse steps the first placement rail, step deeper through your heel and squeeze your leg while maintaining contact with his mouth as you sink your weight closer to your saddle. Maintain your leg, and follow his mouth as the horse leaves the ground to make the jumping effort. By keeping your eye up, and feeling your horse underneath you, his jump will close your hip naturally. Once you feel your horse land and gather himself for the landing rail, think about your own recovery. Your leg should still be on in a supporting way, and your upper body should start to come back to a more vertical position. As he steps the landing pole, think of reconnecting your seat, and pushing his hind end through this landing step. This will reconnect your hand to his mouth. Ride four or five canter steps before making a down transition. We like to finish our first couple of jumps with a halt so that we have a well-defined end to the exercise. Once you feel you are able to execute the trot jump in an organized and balanced manner, you are ready to move on to the gymnastic.
The gymnastic is an extension of the trot cross rail that you have just jumped, and all the same principles apply. The trot pole on the approach side serves as a placement pole, and a reminder that the horse will need to push off his hind end for the jumping effort coming up. We like to use cross rails and cross rail oxers as it gives a clear central focal point for the horse, and encourages a square, correct jumping effort. The distance between the jumping efforts should ride in a manner where the horse will need to rock his weight back, push harder off his hind end, and be clever with his front end. If your horse is stretching to make the distance suggested, then shorten the distance accordingly. Be sure that the jumping elements have ground lines on both the front and backside of the jump. The landing pole will remind your horse to rebalance himself after the last effort, and stop him from thinking that the jump is over once his front feet land!
The idea of the gymnastic is that your horse is able to maintain balance and impulsion as he negotiates each element. His arc should be centered, and he should be tight with his front end, and finish his jump behind over each jumping effort. The abilities and experience level of the horse/ rider combination will dictate the height of the jumps. Experienced horses should jump a height that makes them have to study and try a little bit. If a horse needs to focus on his style, the oxer elements may be gradually widened so that the horse needs to push harder, and follow through with his hind end. If the horse is a little casual with his front end, consider changing one of the cross rail oxers into a square oxer, and tighten up the distance a little. Only experienced horse and rider combinations should consider using the gymnastic as a tool to work on specific jumping style.
HELP FOR THE RIDER
Let’s talk in more detail about using this gymnastic to help the rider. By having several elements to cope with, gymnastics teach riders to ride every part of the horse’s jump, and to stay in balance with the horse. Many riders today look like they think that their job is over once the horse reaches the set up step. We see riders jumping ahead, taking off their leg, and landing on their horse’s necks! We also see riders who are stiff with their bodies and arms, and are constantly getting left behind, or restricting their horse’s jumping motion by hanging on their mouths in the air. Most of these faults can be attributed to a weak base of support. The act of constantly making a new effort through each element of a gymnastic will strengthen the riders overall position. When the rider is able to stay in balance through the gymnastic described above, add a third element. We usually use another cross rail oxer, set at a distance of 21 feet away from the existing one. Don’t forget to put your landing pole on the backside of this element. The landing pole distance can be let out a little bit (try 18 or 19 feet). The exercise will now ride as a trot in, with one stride between each element and one stride to the landing pole. As the rider gets more and more proficient in their position, start to do some of these exercises without stirrups. Keep the jumps low, and start with the single cross rail! If a rider has trouble following the horse’s motion with their arm, braid a section of mane a third of the way up the neck. As the horse steps the first rail, have the rider grab the braided section, and hold it through the exercise. This will teach them the motion of the horse’s head and neck, and will allow the horse to regain some trust in the ability to use his full range of motion. The gymnastic sets the horse up, so the rider won’t feel the need to interfere. If a rider has problems with jumping ahead, or closing their body excessively, try having them put both reins in one hand as they step into the gymnastic. Have them put their other hand straight out in front of them at shoulder level (like they were motioning for someone to stop). This will help them control their upper body, as they will have a better concept of how much they have been moving it.
THE GREEN HORSE
Green horses may be intimidated by seeing multiple jumping efforts presented at such close proximity. Build the gymnastic slowly, and keep it very small. Start with the trot pole and the first cross rail only. On the backside, add a set of wide “railroad tracks”. These are poles that are set on the ground perpendicular to the jump to create a lane, or chute. Once the horse is comfortable with these, add the second jumping effort. Instead of using a cross rail oxer, start with a pile of poles on the ground. If the horse starts to get crooked, you can roll your “railroad tracks” in a little bit to define the track better. After the horse is comfortable with negotiating the stride, and is staying straight, make your pile of poles into a small cross rail, just like the first jumping effort. Eventually you will be able to make it a cross rail oxer.
THE QUICK HORSE
Horses will get quick at the jumps for a variety of reasons. Sometimes it is because they are feeding off of a rider’s nervousness. If this is the case, the rider needs to be remounted on a horse they are more comfortable with, or go back to basics, and build a relationship slowly with their horse so that both horse and rider are comfortable. Horses will also get quick if they are in pain. They adopt a “let’s get it over with as fast as possible” type attitude. Regular appointments and an open dialogue with your vet will determine whether this is the case for your horse. They may also try to hurry through if they are anticipating pain such as a rider catching them in the mouth, or getting out of balance and landing heavily on their back. Get an honest assessment of your riding ability, and flaws if you are having trouble. If you don’t have access to a professional, have your ground person video you, and scrutinize your basic’s yourself. Be sure your own position is solid before you start picking apart your horse’s performance. There are also horses that are quick because they are naturally very energetic horses, and lack patience and training. For these horses, adjustments can be made to our basic gymnastic to help them learn to take their time through the exercise and keep their arc centered. The gymnastic will serve as a series of “speed bumps”, and encourage the horse to slow down and study each element. Instead of using just one trot pole as a placement pole, use a series of poles like we had set in our warm up. The poles should be set on a shorter step ( 3’6” apart for the average horse), and you can use up to 4 or 5 in the series. The pole closest to the cross rail should be approximately 7 feet away. By having to negotiate a series of poles before the first jumping effort, the idea of rhythm and regularity of stride will be enforced. An additional ground pole may be placed between the cross rail, and the cross rail oxer. Start by placing this rail exactly between the two elements, and then you may roll it slightly closer to the cross rail. If you are using a third element, do the same between element two and three. Instead of using just one pole on the landing side of the gymnastic, use two, or three. Keep one stride between them, but experiment with using gradually shortening distances and collecting your horses stride as he takes each step. Be sure to introduce changes to the basic gymnastic gradually so that you don’t over-face your horse. Also, use your voice to soothe a quick horse… sometimes a whispered “whoa” will go a long way, and it also ensures that you are breathing! Give an exuberant horse walk breaks between exercises so that he has a chance to relax, and bring his adrenaline level down.
THE LAZY HORSE
Perhaps you have the opposite problem… your horse is lethargic, and you feel that it takes all the strength you possess to make one jumping effort, let alone several in a row. First, check your own fitness level, and effectiveness on the horse. Do you have a solid leg? Is your stamina all it could be? Assuming you are in good shape, and have a good solid riding position, examine the reasons why your horse could be so dull. Again, keep a dialogue with your vet to rule out any physical reasons. Go over your feed program with him and make sure your horse is getting the proper nutrition. Most horses that are sound but lethargic are bored, weak, unfit, or a combination of all those things. To prevent your horse from getting bored, try to vary his routine. If the weather is good enough, ride out on the grass. In the winter, this may be difficult, so try taking him to some different places to school, or attend some schooling shows. Do not over jump your horse at home, or he will lose interest in his job. We generally jump our horses twice a week at home unless we have a specific reason to do more. If the problem lies in his lack of fitness, then a program that includes the type of flatwork discussed in this series, and gymnastics will help improve his condition. Remember that introducing this type of program is like going to the gym. Build up slowly, and repeat the work often enough that the horse builds muscle memory and is able to cope with the work. Our jumpers and our lazier hunters are all on a 6-day a week riding program. If you are unable to make it to the barn that often, then approach your trainer about options to get your horse out more. If you are without a trainer, then enlist the help of a friend.
In this series we have outlined some gymnastic exercises both on the flat and over jumps. These are basics that can be applied to every jumping horse and rider, and are the building blocks to more advanced gymnastics. Such exercises are only limited to your imagination, and skill level, and it is a topic that to be covered thoroughly would mean writing a book! We hope you have enjoyed these ideas and are able to use some of these principals in becoming a better rider, and having a better horse to ride!